MEXICO CITY
WHAT TO EXPECT
When I told my collegues in New York that I will be moving to Mexico City everyone looked at me like they see me for the last time!
In general the image of Mexico City is scary: people think its huge, extremely dangerous, very polluted with never ending traffic.
And although some of it is very ture, it has MUCH MORE to offer than people think! I was very positively surprised with: great restaurants, beatiful houses, good parties and extremely friendly people! All that makes the city totally worth visiting. Do not avoid it on your trip to Mexico. On the contrary - come and spend long weekend here!
WHEN TO GO
Many people think Mexico City like Acapulco or Playa del Carmen is hot all year long and its just ongoing summer here. That is at least what I thought... Well, NO, Mexico City actually has no summer especially in recent years. There is no snow in witner but still it can get donw to 5 C and you need a coat. From July on the rainy season starts and it rains EVERY DAY from 6 - 9 pm on. It never really gets very hot, not more than 20 C. Rainy season continues till October and than the winter starts.
So basically the best time to come is MAY or JUNE!
October is also a good option.
WHRE TO STAY
My favorite "colonia" in Mexico City is Polanco and that is where most of the expats live. Its safe, clean, full of great restaurants, has good shops and you can actually WALK around! As European I love walking and althgough many Mexicans will encourage you to go by car everywhere, in Polanco it really is not only safe but also enjoyable to walk! Same with Colonia Condesa.
There is a place in Polanco on Campos Elisios where all the hotels are grouped together: the hippiest is the "W", the poshest is the Intercontinental and the cheapest NIKKO. I personally recomend 2 other places:
HOTEL HABITAT
Av. Presidente Masaryk 201 Polanco 11560
tel
+52 (55) 5282-3100
http://www.hotelhabita.com/
Small boutique Hotel, which not only has great restaurant and roof top bar opened in the evening where they spin great electronic music, but most importantly is has little quite swimming pool on the roof top where you can chill, have a drink, have something to eat. There is also a small gym and a SPA where you can have very good massage. The pool really is fantastic especially to chill after a day of sightseeing!
CAMINO REAL
Mariano Escobedo 700
Col. Anzures
México D.F. 11590
Tel: (01 55) 52 63-8888
http://www.caminoreal.com/mexico/main.php
On the edge of Polanco, this much bigger than Habitat Hotel is part of the cool and hip chain. Its funky, it has lots of bars and Restaurants (China Grill, Le Cirque, Moon Bar). It is much bigger than Habitat but does not have the roof top pool...still - good option.
HOW TO GET AROUND
There is no public transport in DF - at least not for tourists / forigners. Believe me - you do NOT want to take the subway.
IT is also not recomended to catch a TAXI on the street as there were many cases of people being robbed. I presonally do take taxis on the street but only during the day. If you take one make sure it has 1 Letter and 5 Numbers (the others are not official taxis!). Also - make sure the meter in on!
The best way is
1) walk to the nearest SITIO Taxi stand - official safe taxis.
2) call the Taxi Service and here is the best one:
RADIO MAXI SEGURIDAD:
5768-8557, 5552-1376, 5768-8553 (if you are calling from international phone dial +52 55 before any of the 3 numbers)
They operate 24 hours a day, they come usually within max 10 min after you call and they are safe and cheap!
These are normal cars without Taxi sign. The operator will ask you: Street and number, Apt nr, name of the person and how are you dressed (so prepare that in Spanish :-)
Exmple prices: Airport - Polanco 120, Polanco - Condesa 40, Polanco - Santa Fe 80 pesos.
USEFUL LINKS
CHILANGO - what's on in Mexico City - website
BAMBA EXPERIENCE - Travel agency owned by a Paul - great for young people - website
VOLARIS - cheap airline - website
INTERJET - cheap airline - website
Phone numbers; 52 is for Mexico, 55 is for the mobile phone - so sometime when you see only 8 numbers and it does not work add 55.
Another confusing thing is that if you call Mexican mobiles from outside you need to add 1 after 52 when you call but text messages would come through even if you do not add 1...very cofusing. So if it does not work try putting one so it looks like this +52 1 55 1234 1234.
Being to DF and not seing the Pyramids is like going to Bejging and not seeing the Great Chinese Wall. Its Mexico's biggest ancient city! You have to do it so better get it done before you start partying and you will be to tired!
The easiest is to go to W Hotel in Polanco (Campos Elisios 252, tel 52 55 91381800 ) and go on an organized trip from there.
They have at least 3 departures times (7, 8 and 11 am), the whole trip takes 6 hours. Its around 30 USD.
They will take you for lunch nearby the pyramids.
Actually Wendesday is one of the best days to go out! In most of the clubs there is great electronic music, it is not to crowded (it can get to much on the weekends) and the crowed on Wednesdays is nicer!
IVOIRE Restaurant & Bar
Emilio Castelar #95 with Julio Verne
Col. Polanco 11560
Tel: +52 55 5280 7912
If you do not care so much about the food (contemporary French) and want to see Polanco ultimate "see-and-be-seen" restaurant with young, posh and beatiful crowed, IVOIRE is the place. Alhought the food is pretty average the place is BEATIFUL inside. It has several levels, while Hamptons style decoration and great VIBE, especially if you up for a night out. Its almost always packed so book in advance! If you do not make if for dinner at least pop up for a drink on the very top level where the BAR is.
IVOIRE
Polanco, Masaryk 169
http://www.liveinlove.com/
LOVE has been around for ages and still is one of the top party places in DF. You might be a bit dissapointed with the interior as its small, does not have good sound system and not even proper dancing floor. Still - all Mexican Socialites love LOVE! So you will see lot of "banana kids" and lot of beatiful girls! Wendesday is my favorite day as there play much less Mexican music "FRESA" and more commercial house and clubbing. Its also nicer crowd.
It is not as easy to get in - CHEPPE on the door can be hash. So either arrive earlier (before midnight) or book a table (Tono De La Vega/ Simon). Table is acutally a good idea as without it you get pushed around. The place is rocking till 7 am so be prepared to party till late!
LOVE
TACOS MARVICHI
Masaryk and Oscar Wilde
This place is absolutely helerious! After 5 am it gets so crowded that its alsmot like antoher party. As everyone is drunk and in party mood people start to talk to each other and actually you can meet nice people there :-)
And the Tacos are just the best!!! The later you come the better they taste!
AUD PIED DE COCHON
website
Campos Eliseos 218
Presidente Inter-Continental Mexico City
If you want a more fancy place for and "after" breakfast head to Pied de Cochon in Hotel Inter-Continental. Its opened 24 hours and you will not be alone eating there at 5 am - you will bump into others who also got hungry after all night party. the food is excellent! Classic French great restaurant.
.JPG)
Tacos Marvichi
http://web.turibus.com.mx/turibus/
Tel; 5563-6693, 5598-6309
Turibus although really touristy thing to do is actually the best sollution to see the city in an easy and safe way. As the city is big and there is no public transport you can use, without turibus it would be really compliaceted to move from one place to another. With Turibus you can hop on and off at any time you want. There is a stop in Polanco so if you are staying here its convinient! One where you can buy tickets is in front of Auditorio Nacional. The whole think will take you whole day so start at around 10 am to finish late afternoon and have some time to rest before the evening - you will need it!
While you hop off in the center to go to Zocalo (main town square) make sure you do the following;
Holiday Inn Hotel
Corner of Avenida 5 de Mayo and Zocalo.
Pop in on the roof top bar but only to say you want to check it out - view is amazing and great photo opportunity. I would not do more than a coffe there though. For lunch much better the below mentioned restaurant.
CASA DE LAS SIRENAS Restaurant
República de Guatemala No. 32, Centro Histórico, tel (52) 5704 • 3345
website
Great traditional Mexican food and on the top of the view of Zocalo (town square), the Catedral, and Templo Mayor. The restaurant is on the 3rd floor and you can dine outdoors on the terrace and that is where you have an amazing view from!
.JPG)
Zocalo
Casa de las Sirenas
Colonia Roma is becomming more and more trendy. If you walk on Colima street you will find plenty of galeries and nice shops. Its very happening on Thursday night so I recommend spending an evening there.
ROSETTA Restaurant
review
Colima 166. Col . Roma Norte. Tel. 5533 7804
Rosetta is new Italian restaurant in an old colonial house. Its beatiful, romantic and has great Italian food.
HOTEL BRICK
facebook website
Avenida Orizaba 95. Roma Norte Col . Roma, tel
+52-55-5525-1100
One of the latest and hottest additions to Colonia Roma is small boutique hotel Brick.
It is great for spending a night there. There are 3 parts:
1) Inside restaurant LA MODERNA - where you can reserve in advance (and do so as it gets full!)
2) Outside restaurant - OLIVIA - where you can NOT reserve, and forget about getting a table as the waiting list is huuuuuuuge...
3) Small bar next to the reception where you can have a drink while waiting for your table
4) BAR downstaris with outside area which starts to kick in bit later, has good music and great vibe.
To kill 2 birds with one stone I recommend eating in ROSETTA and than heading to BRICK for drinks / party after the dinner.
Rosetta
Brick Outside Terrace
LA COLECCION JUMEX
http://www.lacoleccionjumex.org/
To build this mecca of modernism, known as La Colección Jumex, Lopez has blown $80 million of the family fortune. With 1,300 pieces La Colección is both the largest private art collection of any kind in Latin America and the largest collection of Latin American art in the world. (Some 600 pieces are by Latin artists.) The museum is located on the sprawling grounds of the Jumex factory in the industrial outskirts of Mexico City . It is about 19.5 km from Mexico City on the Carretera Libre Mexico-Pachuca. The Collection is opened for visitors from Monday to Friday 10 am - 5 pm. You need to call 55 5775-8188 before to make an apointment!
JUMEX
CONTRAMAR Restaurant
Avenida Durango 200, Colonia Roma
Tel: +52 (55) 5514-9217 , 5514-3169
Great brunch place in Condesa has great SEA FOOD! The crowed is young and mixed posh with Condessa hippie. Its absolutely packed on Fridays and you cannot make a reservation. But do not worry - there is bar area where you can have a drink and lots of chairs to wait for your table outside. I love tostadas de camaron and for dessert order Postre de Platano (banana) and figs chease cake - both to dye for!!
To drink a must try is Carajillo - expresso cafe with Liquour 43.
LOMA LINDA Restaurant
Paseo de la Reforma 1150 and Prado Norte
+52 55 5520 0024
http://lomalinda.com.mx
If you are more into MEAT than this is the place. Its in Lomas. The best option is to be seated on the terrace but that is also the most difficult to get! You can book a table but to get the terrace you will need to be there at 2 pm. Meat is fantastic, so is the crowed. A bit older and more elegant than Contramar - more bankers in suits and older ladies with lots of makeup and Gucci bags. My favortie desserts; Dulce de 3 leces and pancakes with caramel sos...
CONTRAMAR
LOMA LINDA
Night
If you are not dead after the brunch for the evening you can try one of the 2 "IN" shopping centers. I know - sounds ridiculous - and I am personally not a big fun of going out to shopping center but Mexicans seem to LOVE it. So the 2 options are:
1) ANTARA shopping center in POLANCO
3 great places owned by the same owners and that apparently costed more than 10 mln USD.
ERAWAN
Asian Fusion Restaurant - fancy - with outside seating area.
JOY ROOM
In my opinion one of the most beatiful places in Mexico City. Great for drink after dinner. Amazing interior! More bar than club but still has loud music and people dancing.
RAGGA CLUB
Night club with bit younger crowed than Joy Room.
2) PANTALONES building (trousers) in BOSQUES DE LAS LOMAS.
Paseo de Tamarindos Nr 90, Colonia Bosques de las lomas
CAFE O Restaurant
5520 9227
Nice interior, good food, outsife terrace where you can smoke and bar / lounge area. Mixed crowed of both older and younger - still over 30 in general I would say.
NOBU Restaurant
website
Famous Nobu now also in DF. Great food but as in any Nobu very expensive. Nice small lunge area to have a drink. Older crowed.
SENS Night Club
Night club with more mature crowed. Great to go especially if you had dinner in any of the above restaurants.
RAGGA Club
Pantalones building
SAN ANGEL & COYOCAN
SAN ANGEL is mainly known for big Saturday craft market held alongside Plaza San Jacinto. It has beatiful colonial buildings and colorful craft market great for buying sovenirs and taking photos. Local painters put out their work here so you can buy great paintings for very little. You can also visit Diego Riviera and Frida Kahlo Studio Museum.
COYOCAN is another nice area with narrow colonial era streets and its close by San Angel so you can kill 2 birds with one stone! Easiest to take a taxi. Once there make sure to pass by Plaza Hidalgo and Jardin del Centenario. Another must see place here is Museo Frida Kahlo which is in her "Blue House".
If you decide to eat just on the main Plaza there is great Restaurant LOS DANZANTES with delicious food from Oaxaca.
BOSQUE DE CHAPULTAPEC
Another option is the "Hill of grasshoppers" which is the city largest park and has plenty of attractions so you can spend few hours here. Things to see and do:
- Castillo de Chapultepec
- Museum of Modern Art
- National Museum of Antropology
- Tamayo Museum
- Galeria Abierta de las Rejas de Chapultapec (an outdoor galery - photos enlargement on the fance of the park all along Reforma)
- other: zoo, botanic garden, boat ride on the lake...
San Angel
Chapultapec
For dinner choose one of the other restaurants I recomend below in the MORE RESTAURANTS section.
BENGALA BAR
Sonora 34 At corner of Puebla
Mexico City, Col. Roma Norte, Mexico D.F.
Tel. 55 539219
http://www.bengalabar.com/
LA TIMES wrote its one of the best places to go in Mexico DF, and NEW YORK TIMES wrote : "Expats, world travelers, and internationally minded Mexicans have made Bengala one of the city's hottest bars, which features a diverse selection of music and dancing between tables. The 30-somethings crowd comes for live jazz on Tuesday and Thursday nights and a rocking DJ the rest of the week. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 8pm to 3am."
SYBELLES Bar
If you up for one more drink and seeing one more place have a drink in SYBELLES Bar. Also in Condesa - not far from Condessa DF ans walkin distance from Bengala. That place is really nicely decorated and packed.
with BENGALA owner, Walter
FEVER Night Club
Nuevo León 67-PB, Col. Condesa , Phone: 5256.5523
Facebook page
This relatively new club in Condesa is not bad at all. Good electronic music, chill crowed and nice interior. Kicks in a bit later - best around 2 am.
RIOMA Night Club
Insurgentes Sur 377, Col. Condesa / Roma
This underground club has amazing house and electronic music! It might be a bit dark and underground but on the other hand you will find plenty of Brazilian and Argentinian hot models who love elecronic music and come here to dance. It starts really late - do not bother comming before 2 am.
If after that you are still in for more hard core party there are 2 famous after party places;
YEYO
la plaza comercial Tecamachalco - opened from 3 am till midday.
DOBERMAN After Hours
la Zona Rosa , Amberes No. 14, Col. Cuauhtemoc . Tel: 52-69-22-90
Fever Club
REFORMA TO ZOCALO
If you have even more energy you can go walking / jogging / bikking or rollerblading along the whole Reforma Avenue till Zocalo. From 9 am till 2 pm almost on every Sunday Reforma is completely closed for cars and full with sporty Mexicans! Totally fun and safe thing to do. You can even rent a bike there!
There are either bikes for FREE but they are bad quality and you will need to wait long.
Its worth paying and one of the places to rent is:
Mexico Biking Tour
Ferrocarril de Cuernavaca, esq. Volcán. (in front of Sanborns, at the bikking road)
Col. Lomas de Chapultepec+52(55)2623-1478
website
They do both biking tour around Mexico and rent good quality bikes by hour or per day.
From there you can bike in the middle of Reforma (there is biking lane) to IXE building where the from they stop car traffic.
EL CARDENAL Restaurant
Palma Nr 23, Centro Historico, Tel 55-21-30-80
website
On the
way to Zocalo, in Hilton Hotel there is great place to have typical mexican breakfast! Be prepared for a wait but its so worth it! As soon as you seat down ask for home made hot chocolate and their fresh sweet bread to dip in the chocolate. So good! As for the breakfast they have all typical dishes; my favorite Chilaquiles Verdes with chicken. PS - there is a Valet parking for the bikes!!
HABITAT Hotel Pool
Av. Presidente Masaryk 201 Polanco 11560
tel +52 (55) 5282-3100
http://www.hotelhabita.com/
If you are tired, hangoverd and just want to relax lay down on white beds and enjoy the pool and jakuzzi overlooking Polanco on the top of Habita Hotel. If you are not a guest you can still go on.
Its important that you order something (so they can make money!). I recommend Corona Clamato and Shrimp Tacos.
You can also book a Message in the SPA which is also on the roor top (1 hour = 50 USD).
The sun goes away at around 5 pm.
CONDESA DF Hotel
Av. Veracruz 102 / Col. Condesa
Tel + 52 55 5241-2600
http://www.condesadf.com/
Owned by the same people as Habita Hotel CONDESSA DF is another great boutique hotel with great interior, good music and young hip crowed. On sunday there is a party called RECOVERY SUNDAY that goes from 2 pm - 8.30 pm. There are nice bads where you can lye down, DJ putting on chill electronic music. you can bring your dog. Food is great and so are the drinks, my favorite is Ginger Champagne and Mezcal Mohito! There are lot of gay guys and funky people! I like the vibe a lot!
Sunday Rollerblading
.JPG)
Habita Roof Top pool
Condesa DF Roof top bar
If somehow you did end up staying in town and want to go for dinner here are few oepend Restaurants:
50 FRIENDS Pizzeria
Emilio Castelar 95, Polanco (next door to IVOIRE Restaurant)
AU PIED DE COCHON Restaurant
Campos Eliseos 218, Polanco (in Hotel Intercontinental)
Au Pied de Cochon
Lucia Libre is the Mexican wrestling and if you have seen the moovie "Nacho Libre" you will know what I am talking about. I found it helerious. Luchadores like Mistico de Pachuca or Tarzan Boy are fighting solo or in the groups. The crowed is going crazy and its fun! What is annoying is that you can not take the camera inside / take pictures. I smuggled mine inside of course but it was not easy to take photos as the security was wondering around all the time.
You can either buy ticets on line or just go there and buy it from the guys on the street. The latest matches are the best so do not go to early - more towards the end. The around market with all the masks and toys is a lot of fun!
ARENA DE MEXICO - Dr Lavista 189, Colonia Doctores
For schdules / tickets and more info check the website
BULLFLIGHT
Going to a bull fight seems to be the most enjoyed spectator sport in Mexico City. It takes place n the Monumental “Plaza de Toros Mexico,” the largest bull fighting ring in the world. Holding 45,000 spectators, you'll feel the energy as the ring springs to life. Its controvercial and not that I am a fun of it but I think its part of the culture and worth seing once. Takes place on Sundays at 3 pm.
MARIACHIS - website
In Argentina they have tango, in Brazil Samba and in Mexico - Mariachis! Its not just for tourists. Mexicans really LOVE Mariachis, especially after some tequillas! They order them for weddings, birthdays or even house parties. Plaza Garibaldi used to be the best spot to see them but now its considered to be dangerous specially at night. Place recomended by Mexicans is RESTAURANTE EL ARROYO on Insurgentes BLVD in South part of Mexico City.
Lucia Libre
.JPG)
Bull fight
(relatively) NEW COMERS:
In addition to above described ROSETTA and BRICK Hotel.
GLOUTONNERIE Restaurant
Campos Eliseos 142, Col. Polanco, 55 5250 0981 - website
Owned by same people as Braserrie Central this French food restaurant has great food, fantastic interior and great roof top terrace for a drink.
TORI TORI Condesa
Avenida Amsterdam
in Condesa
Its another location of great Tori Tori in Polanco with one of the best Sushis in DF. This one has younger more Condesa-like vibe; terrace for smokers and DJ booth.
TONALA 20
Tonala 20, Colonia Roma, 55 5207 8122
Another great place in Colonia Roma. The Restaurant is located in beatiful old house and the atmosphere is amazing. Fire place, books, antique furniture and good French food on the top of it. There is no sign and you HAVE to reserve in advance. Great for going big group or even renting the place for events.
CLASSIC PLACES THAT NEVER GO OUT OF FASHION:
In addition to above descrined; Contramar, Loma Linda, IVOIRE, Pied de Cochon, El Cardenal...
Brunch at SPUNTINO Restaurant
Virgilio nr 40 corner with Emilio Castelar, Colonia Polanco
Tel: 5281-1211
Great
for more posh / scene / nice place brunch in Polanco. Great especially if the weather is nice as its open. Spuntino has good italian food and is great for people watching. The brunch starts at 2 pm and people are still there at 5.30 pm... - most IN from Thursday till Sunday.
L Osteria del BECCO Restaurant
Goldsmith 103
Tel.: 5282 1059
Another great Italian food chic place but more for night dinner. Its also in Polanco, also posh, also attracts great crowed and you also need to book in advance! This Italian restaurant, owned by Rolly, is also famous for one of the best wine collection in Mexico City! (There is also BECCO in Acapulco - if you happen to go there it is THE best place there!)
PUERTO MADERO
Av. Presidente Masarik 110 corner with Francisco Petrarca, Polanco
Great food, and not only meet - even the sushi is great. Posh crowed.
CASA BELL
Praga nr 4, Colonia Juarez
Great place for brunch when the weather is nice as the garden is beatiful!
JASO
88 Newton, Colonia Polanco
This tiny place is all about quality - the food is fantastic. Do not order to much as there are at least 3 plates that come on house. Great for romantic date.
TORI TORI
Anatole France 71 A-B, Colonia Polanco
One of the best sushi restaurants in Mexico DF. There is also NEW Tori Tori in Condesa that has bit younger crowd, terrace for smoking and DJs on certain days (Avenida Amsterdam)
LE BOUCHON
Julio Verne 102, corner Virgilio, Colonia Polanco
Very good French restaurant and less expensive / less stucked up than Au Pied de Cochon.
CENTRAL BRASSERIE
Av.Presidente Masarik 123, Colonia Polanco
New commer. Great food, great place, good crowed. I love the small garden for smoking with the fire place in the middle.
MI GUSTO ES
Torcuato Tasso 324, Colonia Polanco (btw Masarik and Horacio)
Great see food. Ceviche are delicious! Laid back, not posh at all. Great for brunch and Mariachis.
BISTRO MOSAICO
There are few of them but my favorite one is in Colonia Condesa - Michoacan nr 10
Good french food, good corwed and its not in Polanco :-)
LOS CANARIOS Restaurant
Goldsmith 66 Interior 1er piso. Polanco .
Tels: 52804900
http://www.loscanarios.com.mx/canarios/home.html
There are several Los Canarios but I recomend the one in Polanco as it has nice huge teracce overlooking Masaryk. The reason I recomend this place is not because its posh, hip, scene or has great interior (actually none of these) but it offers GREAT Mexican food at very reasonable price! For dessert Dulce de 3 leces...so damn good!
MP BISTRO Restaurant
Andres Bello 10, (between Jorge Elliot & Reforma)
Tel.: 5280-2506
http://www.monicapatino.com.mx/
If you are not in the mood for Mexican food (but modern asian fusion) but you rather go to more fun / happening place PM next to NIKKO Hotel is the place. On Wednesdays they have live music, its always lively and attracts young crowed.
Spuntino brunch
with Rolly at Becco
Puerto Madero
MI GUSTO ES
BISTRO MOSAICO
HOTEL HABITA ROOF TOP Bar
Av. Presidente Masaryk 201 Polanco 11560
tel +52 (55) 5282-3100
http://www.hotelhabita.com/
Used to be really in - these days have definatelly passed but its always a SAFE bet especially if you are staying in Polanco. Nice view of Polanco, fire place, good music.
LEONOR Bar
Nuevo Leon 153, Colonia Condesa
Chilled place with relaxed Condesa crowed. Great house music. Turns into a party at later hours.
Leonor Bar
LIPSTICK
Zona Rosa, Amberes # 1. Col. Juárez. Tel. 5514 4920.
Great for earlier at night.
LIVING Night Club
Paseo de la Reforma 483. Colonia Cuahutemoc tel. 5286 0671, website
I love that place - in an old colonial house, diva welcomes you on the door and the outdoor area (garden) is fantastic! There are 2 rooms to choose from - one hip-hop and another amazing house music. Later at night dancers in small panties and with hot boddies start they show. I have so much fun there!
Living Club
more to come as I continue to discover new places....